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Rock climbing is an exhilarating sport that combines physical strength, technical skill, and mental focus. However, it's also inherently risky, with falls being a potential hazard at any time during a climb. To mitigate this risk and protect climbers from severe injuries, shock absorbers are essential pieces of equipment. Among the many options available on the market, Edelrids Oasis 138 stands out as a reliable, versatile, and innovative solution for rock climbers of all levels. This comprehensive review will delve into every aspect of the Edelrid Oasis 138, from its design and durability to its shock absorption capabilities and safety features. We'll also explore user reviews and compare it with other leading models in the market to help you make an informed decision about your next purchase. Whether youre a seasoned pro or just starting out, this review will provide all the information you need to determine if the Edelrid Oasis 138 is the right shock absorber for you.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is designed with simplicity and functionality in mind. Its compact size makes it easy to carry on a harness without adding unnecessary bulk, while its lightweight construction minimizes fatigue during long climbs. The main body of the Oasis 138 is made from high-strength aluminum alloy, ensuring both durability and strength. One of the standout features of this shock absorber is its patented "Oasis" technology. This unique design utilizes a spring mechanism that allows for greater elasticity during falls. The spring expands rapidly to absorb energy, reducing the force transmitted to the climber's harness by up to 40% compared to traditional shock absorbers. The Oasis 138 also features a robust steel locking carabiner with an Auto-Lock system. This ensures secure attachment to anchor points and prevents accidental disconnections during falls or other dynamic movements. The carabiners ergonomic design allows for easy clipping and unclipping, even when wearing gloves. Key Design Features:
Edelrid is renowned for its commitment to quality, and the Oasis 138 reflects this standard. The aluminum alloy used in the construction of this shock absorber is highly resistant to corrosion and wear, ensuring long-lasting performance even under harsh conditions. Rigorous testing has proven that the Oasis 138 can withstand multiple falls without compromising its structural integrity or shock absorption capabilities. The steel carabiner also boasts exceptional durability and strength. Edelrid uses a special heat treatment process to harden the metal, making it resistant to bending and deformation. This ensures that the carabiner remains reliable even after repeated use and exposure to extreme temperatures. Testing and Certifications:
The Edelrid Oasis 138's patented "Oasis" spring technology is the key to its superior shock absorption capabilities. During a fall, the spring rapidly expands to absorb energy, reducing the force transmitted to the climbers harness by up to 40% compared to traditional shock absorbers. This can significantly reduce the risk of serious injury and increase overall safety during rock climbing. The Oasis 138 also features an integrated damper system that further enhances its performance. The damper prevents excessive spring oscillation, ensuring a smooth deceleration and minimizing rebound after impact. This reduces the likelihood of secondary impacts and helps prevent injuries to other climbers in the area. Fall Factor Analysis: Edelrid provides detailed fall factor analysis data for the Oasis 138 on their website. Fall factor is a measure of how far a climber falls relative to the length of the rope they are using. A higher fall factor indicates a more forceful impact, increasing the risk of injury. Here's a summary of the Oasis 138s performance at different fall factors:
The Edelrid Oasis 138 incorporates several safety features to ensure reliable performance in critical situations:
User reviews of the Edelrid Oasis 138 are overwhelmingly positive. Climbers praise its compact size, lightweight construction, and exceptional shock absorption capabilities. Many also appreciate its ease of use and durability. Heres a sampling of what users have to say:
The Edelrid Oasis 138 typically retails for around $70-$90 USD. While this is a bit more expensive than some competing models, its superior shock absorption capabilities and overall quality make it an excellent value for money. Considering that your life may depend on your safety equipment, investing in a high-quality shock absorber like the Edelrid Oasis 138 is well worth it. Comparison with Other Shock Absorbers: | Feature | Edelrid Oasis 138 | Petzl STOPA | Mammut Smart 2.0 | ||--|-|-| | Weight | 95 g | 114 g | 78 g | | Shock Absorption | Up to 40% reduction | N/A | N/A | | Price | $70-$90 USD | $60-$80 USD | $65-$85 USD | As you can see, the Edelrid Oasis 138 stands out with its unique spring technology and significant shock absorption capabilities. While it's slightly heavier than the Mammut Smart 2.0, its superior performance makes up for this difference. The Petzl STOPA lacks any advanced shock absorption features but is a more budget-friendly option.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is an exceptional choice for rock climbers of all skill levels who prioritize safety and performance. Its innovative spring technology, durable construction, and reliable locking carabiner make it one of the best shock absorbers on the market today. While its price point may be slightly higher than some alternatives, the added benefits are well worth the investment.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is a compact, lightweight shock absorber designed for rope access and work at height applications. It significantly reduces the peak forces on the body during falls compared to standard rope grabs or lanyards, making it ideal for situations where safety is paramount.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is designed for professionals working at height, including those involved in construction, industrial maintenance, tree care, and rescue operations. It's also suitable for advanced climbers looking to enhance their fall protection systems.
Shock absorbers like the Edelrid Oasis reduce the peak force felt during falls by absorbing energy as it stretches. This reduces the risk of injury and damage to equipment, while maintaining a comfortable working distance. It's an important safety component for any rope access system.
A shock absorber like the Edelrid Oasis is designed to stretch during a fall, absorbing energy and reducing forces on the body. A rope grab automatically locks onto the climbing rope when it senses movement, stopping falls instantly but potentially transmitting higher peak forces. The Oasis offers more controlled deceleration compared to standard grabs.
The Edelrid Oasis is constructed primarily from durable polyamide webbing and high-strength steel components. These materials ensure strength, reliability, and resistance to abrasion and weather conditions.
During a fall, the integrated shock absorber stretches as it absorbs energy. This reduces the deceleration force on the user's body, minimizing potential injuries. The locking carabiner ensures that the rope cannot retract back through the device after an impact.
While the Edelrid Oasis offers superior fall protection, it is primarily intended for experienced users who understand its operation and limitations. Beginners should prioritize basic safety training before using such advanced equipment.
The working length refers to the distance between the anchor point and the user when they are at rest. The Edelrid Oasis 138 has a working length of approximately 138cm (54 inches). This provides ample room for movement while maintaining a safe connection to the anchorage.
Consider your typical work environment and the distances you'll need to cover. A longer absorber allows greater mobility but can also introduce more potential fall height if misused. The 138cm length is ideal for general-purpose rope access applications.
Edelrid recommends using a locking carabiner (preferably an HMS or pear shape) that meets EN 362 standards. This ensures secure attachment to the anchor and prevents accidental disconnections during use.
Before each use, carefully inspect the webbing for any signs of wear, cuts, or abrasion. Check the stitching for integrity and ensure that all carabiners are securely locked. Discard the device if you find any damage. Regularly clean your equipment with mild soap and water to remove dirt and debris.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is designed for single rope applications only. Using it with twin or double ropes can compromise its performance and create hazardous conditions.
Edelrid recommends replacing your shock absorber after a fall, even if there are no visible signs of damage. Additionally, replace the device every two years (or sooner) based on usage frequency and inspection results. Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines for replacement intervals.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 has a maximum user weight limit of 140 kg (309 lbs). It is crucial to ensure that you do not exceed this limit, as it can compromise the device's effectiveness and safety.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 meets EN 355:2002 standards for fall protection equipment. This certification guarantees that the product has been rigorously tested to ensure its performance, strength, and reliability under simulated fall conditions.
While it is not recommended to intentionally drop yourself, you can simulate a fall by dropping a weighted dummy from various heights onto the shock absorber connected to an anchor point. This allows you to observe how much energy it absorbs and verify its proper function. However, always consult with a qualified professional before conducting such tests.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is available for purchase from authorized outdoor gear retailers online and in-store. You can also find it on reputable climbing equipment marketplaces or directly through the Edelrid website. Be sure to buy from a trusted source to ensure authenticity.
If your Edelrid Oasis fails inspection, immediately discontinue its use and replace it with a new device. Never attempt to repair or modify fall protection equipment yourself; always follow the manufacturer's instructions for replacement.
The Edelrid Oasis 138 is designed for use with dynamic climbing ropes that meet EN 892 standards. It may not function properly or provide adequate protection when used with static ropes or other types of cordage.
Edelrid offers a limited warranty on their products, typically covering manufacturing defects and material failures. The warranty period varies depending on the specific product; refer to the manufacturer's website for details.