A shock absorber, also known as an energy absorber or lanyard with integrated energy absorption system (IAS), is a device designed to dissipate kinetic energy during a fall. It does this by elongating rapidly when the climber falls, spreading out the impact force over a longer period of time and reducing its peak value. This significantly decreases the stress on your body, particularly your spine and limbs, in case of an accident. Shock absorbers are typically used with via ferrata sets or as part of fall arrest systems for industrial settings, but they can also be found integrated into some climbing harnesses. While not a replacement for proper belaying techniques, shock absorbers provide an extra layer of protection when things go wrong.

There are several types of shock absorbers available on the market, each with its own characteristics and applications:

This is the most common type found in via ferrata sets. It consists of a lanyard made from elastic material that stretches when subjected to force, absorbing energy during a fall. The elasticity provides cushioning for the climber's body and reduces peak forces.

• Pros: Lightweight, compact, easy to use, relatively inexpensive
• Cons: Less effective at higher falls (greater than 2 meters), may not absorb enough energy if used improperly or with insufficient gear.

These shock absorbers are typically integrated into climbing harnesses and offer superior impact absorption compared to elastic lanyards. They utilize a specialized mechanism, often involving spring-loaded components or woven material that rapidly elongates under stress, significantly reducing the force of impact during a fall.

• Pros: Highly effective at absorbing energy over longer falls (up to 4 meters), compact and integrated into harness design
• Cons: More expensive than elastic lanyards, may require specialized training for proper use and inspection.

This type is primarily used in industrial settings where a single anchor point is available. It typically consists of a strap or lanyard attached to the fall arrest device with an integrated energy absorber that activates during a fall, dissipating kinetic energy over a longer period. They are less common in recreational climbing.

• Pros: Compatible with single-point anchor systems
• Cons: Not suitable for multi-point anchor setups like those used in via ferrata or sport climbing.

Self-retracting lanyards are fall arrest devices that automatically retract after use, keeping the lanyard taut and preventing entanglement. Some SRLAs incorporate a shock absorber mechanism to reduce impact forces during falls. This type is commonly used in industrial safety applications but less frequently found in recreational climbing.

• Pros: Convenient for working at heights, reduces trip hazards
• Cons: More expensive than other types of shock absorbers, not as versatile due to limited lanyard length.

When selecting a shock absorber, consider the following factors:

The fall factor is a measure of how far you have fallen relative to your ropes length and angle. It's crucial to choose a shock absorber with an appropriate FFR rating for the type of climbing you plan to do. Most via ferrata sets use shock absorbers rated for a FFR of 2 (a fall factor of two). Climbing harnesses typically incorporate IAS devices that are effective over a wider range of fall factors, often up to FF4 or higher.

The length of the lanyard is important for maneuvering around obstacles on via ferratas. The material should be durable enough to withstand repeated use and exposure to harsh environments (sun, water, abrasion). Look for shock absorbers made from high-quality nylon or polyester webbing with reinforced stitching. For industrial applications, check if the device meets relevant safety standards such as ANSI Z359.14.

The weight of a shock absorber can affect your overall climbing experience. Lighter models are generally preferred for recreational use, while heavier duty devices may be necessary in more demanding industrial environments. Ensure that the harness or lanyard is comfortable to wear for extended periods and does not restrict movement during climbing activities.

Always choose a shock absorber from a reputable manufacturer with appropriate certifications (e.g., CE, UIAA). These certifications ensure that the device has been tested and meets industry safety standards. Be aware of counterfeit products; purchase only from authorized retailers to guarantee authenticity and quality.

Regular inspection is essential for maintaining shock absorber functionality. Check webbing for wear or damage, stitching integrity, metal components for corrosion, and proper operation of the energy absorption system. Follow manufacturer's guidelines for cleaning and storage to prolong its lifespan. Replace your shock absorber every 2-3 years or sooner if any defects are found.

Shock absorbers provide several key benefits to climbers:

• Reduced Impact Forces: The primary benefit is the significant reduction in impact forces during a fall, which can help prevent serious injuries such as spinal fractures and head trauma.
• Increased Safety Margin: They offer an extra layer of safety when belaying or via ferrata systems fail, providing a buffer against unexpected falls.
• Enhanced Confidence: Knowing that you have additional protection can increase your confidence while climbing more challenging routes.
• Improved Mobility: Shock absorbers allow for greater freedom of movement during climbs by minimizing the restriction caused by rigid fall arrest devices.
• Versatility: Depending on the type, they can be used with a variety of climbing systems and anchor setups.