Scarpa Vapor V Climbing Shoes

The Scarpa Vapor V boasts an aggressive yet elegant aesthetic that reflects its intended purpose - high-performance climbing. Here's what makes it stand out in terms of design and construction:

• Microfiber Leather: Scarpa uses a microfiber leather upper, which is both durable and breathable. It offers excellent abrasion resistance while still allowing your feet to breathe during long climbs. This material also molds nicely to the foot over time, enhancing comfort and performance.

• Slightly Asymmetric: The Vapor V's toe box shape is slightly asymmetric, offering a good balance between precision edging and overall versatility. Its not overly aggressive like some competition-focused shoes but provides enough downturn to handle steep terrain effectively. This makes it suitable for both beginners looking to progress and experienced climbers seeking a comfortable yet high-performing shoe.

• Velcro Straps: The Vapor V features two velcro straps, which provide a secure fit that can be easily adjusted on the wall. This is advantageous over laces in terms of convenience and speed when transitioning between routes or bouldering problems. The straps also allow for better ventilation compared to laces.

• Stiff & Supportive: The heel cup is one of the Vapor V's strongest features, offering exceptional stiffness and support. It locks your heel securely in place, preventing slippage during powerful heel hooks or technical maneuvers. This contributes significantly to the shoes overall stability and performance.

• Vibram XS Edge Rubber: Scarpa equips the Vapor V with Vibram XS Edge rubber, a high-friction compound known for its excellent edging precision and durability. This ensures reliable grip on small holds and long routes. The thickness of this rubber varies across the shoe, with thicker patches under the toes and heel for added protection and longevity.

• Full Rubber Rand: A full rubber rand wraps around the entire sole, providing excellent edging performance and protecting the upper from abrasion against rock surfaces. This feature also allows for easier resoleing when necessary.

While many high-performance climbing shoes prioritize aggressive shapes over comfort, the Scarpa Vapor V manages to strike a surprisingly good balance between the two. Here's how they fare in terms of comfort:

• Moderate: The Vapor V does require some breaking in, but its not as extreme as with more aggressive shoes. After a few sessions (typically 3-5), you should notice them softening up and conforming better to your foot shape. Scarpa's microfiber leather upper plays a significant role in this relatively comfortable break-in process.

• True to Size: Generally, the Vapor V runs true to size. However, some climbers with wider feet may find them slightly narrow. We recommend trying them on at your local climbing gym or retailer if possible before purchasing online. Scarpa also offers half sizes, which can be helpful for finding a precise fit.

• Minimal: The Vapor V has minimal padding inside the shoe, contributing to its sensitivity and responsiveness while edging. While some climbers may find this slightly uncomfortable initially, it enhances performance by allowing you to feel every nuance of the rock beneath your feet. The microfiber lining is soft and comfortable against the skin, reducing friction and preventing blisters.

• Moderate: The toe box offers enough room for most foot shapes without feeling overly roomy or sloppy. However, climbers with wider toes may want to consider sizing up slightly.

The Scarpa Vapor V is known for its durability, thanks in part to the high-quality materials used in its construction and a full rubber rand that protects the upper from abrasion. Here's what you can expect in terms of lifespan:

• Upper Material: The microfiber leather upper is incredibly durable and resistant to tearing or stretching over time.
• Rubber Outsole: The Vibram XS Edge rubber outsole provides excellent edging precision and durability, but it will eventually wear down with heavy use. Depending on your climbing frequency and style, you can expect the soles to last anywhere from several months to a year before needing resoling.
• Stitching & Construction: Scarpa's renowned craftsmanship ensures that all stitching is strong and secure. The overall construction of the shoe feels solid and robust, further contributing to its durability.

One of the most important factors when choosing a climbing shoe is grip how well it adheres to various types of rock surfaces. The Scarpa Vapor V excels in this area thanks to its Vibram XS Edge rubber outsole and full rubber rand. Here's a breakdown of its performance:

• Granite & Limestone: These are common outdoor rock types, known for their smooth and often polished surfaces. The Vapor V performs exceptionally well on granite and limestone, providing reliable grip even when the holds are small or rounded.
• Sandstone: Sandstone tends to be rougher than granite or limestone, offering more texture for the rubber to cling to. The Vapor V grips sandstone effectively, although it may not feel as secure compared to shoes with a stickier compound (like Vibram XS Grip 2).
• Gneiss & Schist: These metamorphic rock types can be quite challenging due to their flaky and fractured nature. The Vapor Vs stiff heel cup provides stability during powerful heel hooks on these surfaces, while the full rubber rand offers excellent edging precision for navigating cracks or thin edges.
• Gym Holds (Plastic): The Vapor V performs well indoors as well, gripping plastic holds consistently. However, climbers may find that other shoes with stickier rubber compounds offer slightly better performance on steeper gym walls.

Overall, the Scarpa Vapor V is a versatile and high-performing climbing shoe suitable for a wide range of applications. Here's how it performs across different climbing disciplines:

• Sport Climbing: The Vapor V excels at sport climbing due to its precise edging capabilities, stiff heel cup, and comfortable fit that allows for long routes. Its also an excellent choice for overhanging climbs where footwork precision is crucial.
• Bouldering: While not specifically designed for bouldering (where stickier rubber compounds are often preferred), the Vapor V can still handle many boulder problems effectively. Its versatility and comfortable fit make it a good option for climbers who primarily sport climb but occasionally boulder.
• Trad Climbing: The stiff heel cup and full rubber rand of the Vapor V make it well-suited to trad climbing, where powerful heel hooks are frequently used on cracks or features. The shoe's edging precision also aids in navigating thin edges or small pockets.
• Indoor Climbing: The Vapor V performs well indoors as mentioned before but may not be your first choice for steep gym walls. However, its comfortable fit and durability make it a good option for regular climbing sessions at the gym.

The Scarpa Vapor V has garnered overwhelmingly positive reviews from climbers around the world. Here's a summary of what users are saying:

• Comfort: Many reviewers praise the Vapor V for its surprising comfort, especially considering its high-performance design. They appreciate the minimal padding and snug fit, which allows them to feel the rock better while still providing adequate protection.
• Grip: The Vibram XS Edge rubber outsole receives consistent praise for its excellent edging precision and durability. Climbers report that it provides reliable grip on various types of rock surfaces.
• Durability: Users consistently highlight the Vapor V's exceptional durability, noting that they have lasted much longer than other climbing shoes theyve owned in the past.
• Versatility: The Vapor V is frequently described as a versatile shoe suitable for both sport and trad climbing, making it a popular choice among climbers with diverse interests.

The Scarpa Vapor V typically retails between $150 - $200 USD depending on the retailer. While this may seem like a significant investment upfront, many climbers believe that its performance, durability, and comfort justify the price tag. When compared to other high-performance climbing shoes with similar features and quality, the Vapor V is often considered good value for money.

The Scarpa Vapor V is a versatile, durable, and comfortable climbing shoe that performs exceptionally well on various types of rock surfaces. It's an excellent choice for sport climbers looking for a high-performance shoe with enough versatility to handle different styles of routes. While not the best option for steep gym walls or bouldering problems requiring maximum grip, it remains a solid all-around performer suitable for experienced climbers and those transitioning from beginner shoes.

These shoes excel at bouldering and sport climbing where precision is key. While they offer good performance in cracks, the Vapor Vs asymmetrical shape makes them less ideal for crack climbing than other models. They're great for intermediate to advanced climbers looking for a high-performance shoe that can handle technical routes.

The Scarpa Vapor V features a leather upper with microfiber reinforcements, ensuring durability and comfort. The sole is Vibram XS Edge rubber, known for its excellent edging power and grip. A synthetic lining reduces stretching over time.

While the Scarpa Vapor V offers exceptional performance, its aggressive shape and stiff midsole may be a bit too much for true beginners. Beginner climbers should consider more comfortable shoes with flatter lasts to develop foot strength before transitioning to high-performance models like this one. They are best suited for those who have some climbing experience under their belts.

Scarpa Vapor V's tend to run small, so its important to try them on and get a snug fit. Your toes should be curled slightly, but not cramped or painful. A professional fitting at your local climbing gym is highly recommended. Referencing Scarpa's sizing chart can also help you find the right size for your foot shape.

The Vapor V provides exceptional edging power thanks to its stiff midsole and Vibram XS Edge rubber outsole. This makes them ideal for overhanging routes or technical face climbs that require precise toe placement on small holds.

While the Scarpa Vapor V is a high-performance shoe, it's relatively comfortable compared to other aggressive models. The leather upper and padded heel cup help minimize rubbing and pressure points. However, as with any performance climbing shoe, expect some discomfort when pushing your limits.

To extend the life of your shoes, clean them regularly with a soft brush or damp cloth to remove dirt and chalk buildup. Avoid using harsh chemicals or detergents. Stuff them with paper after each use to help maintain their shape. Store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

Vibram XS Edge is a high-friction rubber compound designed for edging on small holds and technical terrain. It offers excellent grip and durability while minimizing wear over time.

Breaking in the Scarpa Vapor V requires patience and consistent use. Wear them around your home or to easy climbs to gradually stretch out the leather upper. You can also try a gentle stretching process using specialized shoe stretchers if needed, but be careful not to overstretch.

The Vapor V's key feature is its Speed Lace system which allows for quick and secure lacing adjustments on the go. They also incorporate Scarpas patented Tension Control System (TCS) for enhanced heel support and reduced slippage. The asymmetric shape further enhances precision and power when edging or toeing in.

The Instinct VS is a slightly more aggressive shoe with a steeper downturned profile, better suited for overhanging routes and steep boulder problems. The Vapor V is less downturned but still offers excellent performance on technical terrain. Both are highly regarded climbing shoes, with your choice depending on your preferred style of climbing.

The Scarpa Vapor V features a moderately aggressive heel cup that provides good support for heel hooks without being overly stiff or uncomfortable. It's ideal for climbers who rely on heel hooking to navigate technical routes and overhanging terrain.

While they can be used in cracks, the Scarpa Vapor Vs asymmetrical shape makes them less effective than other models designed specifically for crack climbing. You may find that your feet rub uncomfortably against the edges of the crack. For crack climbs, consider a shoe with a wider toe box and flatter last.

The leather upper will stretch slightly during use, but it's generally more stable than synthetic materials. Scarpas synthetic lining helps to minimize stretching, keeping your Vapor Vs shape consistent over time. It's best to get a snug fit initially and allow for slight settling as the shoe breaks in.

The Scarpa Vapor V weighs approximately 13 ounces (around 368 grams) per pair, which is relatively light considering their performance capabilities. The lightweight design helps reduce foot fatigue during long climbs or bouldering sessions.

You can purchase the Scarpa Vapor V at several reputable online retailers that specialize in climbing gear and equipment. Be sure to read reviews from other climbers before making a purchase to ensure you're getting authentic products with reliable customer service.

The Scarpa Vapor V is considered one of the best high-performance climbing shoes on the market, and its price reflects that quality. For serious climbers seeking top-tier edging power, precision, and comfort, they are a worthwhile investment. However, beginners or casual climbers may find less expensive options more suitable for their needs.